Zack Berger is the new Head Bartender of Analogue, the West Village craft cocktail and whiskey bar. Zack, formerly of Jacob's Pickles and Mesa Grill, joined the Analogue team this summer and in collaboration with the bar team debuted the new fall cocktail menu along with spirit flights. Broadwayworld.com interviewed Zack as this week's "Master Mixologist."
When did you first become interested in the cocktail culture?
I had started working in restaurants to make money and because of the flexible schedule, but it triggered my fascination with the culinary arts. And I take that word, "art," very seriously. Food and cocktails are an expression of a person's palate and can tell you a ton about that person based on what they've ordered or what they enjoy. Just as "art" is an expression of the artist's perspective and desire. So I started by just wanting to know as much as I could about my industry. Serving, cooking, cleaning, hospitality, and eventually cocktails. I was exposed to a world that I didn't know much about, and quite frankly, I was embarrassed. But I was also tremendously intrigued by this constantly changing and growing culture for which there are new products almost every day.
What innovations in mixology and bartending do you find fascinating?
The best time in a culture is when people start trying to break the rules of the game -- mixing things together that don't seem to make sense but work out beautifully. Right now I'm into what amazing things we can do with ice. It always changes the game when we up the quality of our ice. It is such an important ingredient that often gets overlooked. Ice is my favorite tool because it totally shifts the beverage into an entirely different realm.
Most products are coming out with seasonal editions, which is always exciting. But I'm not a fan of the restrictions that the seasons place on our palates (i.e. summer is tequila with bright citrus and winter is whiskey with bitters). I think people should be able to enjoy whatever they want, whenever they want. That's a pretty gluttonous ideal, but who am I to say that someone can't have something because Mother Nature said so?
How do Analogue guests encourage your creativity?
We have some of the best guests at Analogue. We actively encourage people to order a bespoke cocktail if they can't find what they're looking for on the current menu. Our guests are very adventurous and trust the bartender to make them a cocktail on or off the menu. That's a very cool thing but it comes with a big risk. It takes some chutzpah to look at a bartender and say, "I trust you, make me this." Of course that's what our whole industry is about -- we as bartenders getting to explore our guests' palates so we can make them the perfect drink.
What are your preferred "classic cocktails" and why? Tell us about the classic cocktails you serve at Analogue.
I love a Gibson or pretty much any twist on a Boulevardier, usually a Paper Plane does the trick for me. The Gibson is becoming rare, as not many bars make their own onion brines anymore, which is a shame because it's a fabulous twist on a Dirty Martini. I love the brine and balance with an herbaceous gin. It's incredibly layered and definitely a drink to change your night for the better.
Analogue's menu has a Classic Cocktails section to remind people that there are some really good ones out there that have been around for a very long time. Right now we have a twist on a Blood and Sand with a whole egg called the Blood and Sand Flip. We also feature a Gibson, Sidecar, Scofflaw and Brooklyn because these are cocktails that are not commonly ordered unless someone is reminded that they are available. Nothing feels better than a guest who gets excited that we offer a Gibson or a Blood and Sand.
Tell us about a few of your signature cocktails and why they are distinctive.
The new menu is almost entirely created by the current bar team. We did keep a few cocktails from the previous menu because they are guest favorites and have become staples of the bar. The best example of this is our namesake cocktail, the Analogue. It's a well-rounded rum and bourbon drink with ginger liqueur, Velvet Falernum and bitters. It sets itself up to be a cocktailer's drink but it is very inviting and can be enjoyed by the most experienced of cocktail drinkers or the newest.
We have also added new drinks with cool concepts, like Envy. It is a spirit-forward cocktail that has banana liqueur, Ancho Reyes Verde [new limited edition green chili liqueur], basil, vermouth and Chartreuse. Then we shake it. You don't really see many non-citrus spirit-based cocktails being shaken. Half of me feels like we've broken a rule and the other half doesn't care because it just tastes great!
Give us your perfect pairing for a cocktail and a culinary selection at Analogue.
The perfect pairing for me would be to start off with Analogue's Tomato Confit Crostini paired with our No.3 cocktail [rum, grapefruit, Luxardo Maraschino liqueur, lime, vanilla syrup, peach bitters, Laphroaig Single Malt Whisky mist]. The crostini has a smoky flavor from the toasted bread with really juicy tomato on top. The No. 3 has the similar pairing in that it is an aged rum drink with vanilla and citrus with a peaty Scotch spray. The two balance each other well.
Next, I'd go with our charcuterie and cheese plates. With these I'm moving to a more aggressive cocktail and upping the game. The right one for me is the Non-Commissioned Officer with Booker's Bourbon, Ancho Reyes liqueur, orange bitters with a splash of Amaro Nonino. This pairing is just awesome. Juicy and smoky charcuterie and cheese paired with a cocktail that has an Old Fashioned feel but is incredibly complex in its profile, with spicy and slightly sweet notes to work with a high-powered bourbon.
Of course the evening needs to be finished with a shot of Amaro Montenegro. The amaro resets your palate, soothes your stomach and either sets you up for another round or really puts a great button on the evening.Tell us a little about Analogue and the beverage program. Feel Free to elaborate on the fall cocktails.
Analogue is a craft cocktail and whiskey bar that's in an incredible position where we have the opportunity to constantly explore and try new concepts and ideas. At Analogue, you're going to find exactly what you want. It may take some discussion with the great bar team to find it but because of the freedom for the team to explore and the flexibility for the bar to expand, we will be able to get you exactly what you're looking for, even if it's not what you expected. Almost the entire new menu was developed over the past two months by our bar team. Through research and a ton of development we were able to really create some cool, sophisticated drinks. I'm really excited to be a part of this program and look forward to what we discover next.
Analogue is a passion project for two longtime friends with a shared love for whiskey and music, Jared Gordon and Jesse Wilson, who met at NYU business school and opened Analogue in late 2013. They have created a neighborhood-friendly destination with the spirit of classic New York, complete with an extensive whiskey collection and spirit-focused cocktails. Music runs through the veins of Analogue, from the 1960s tube-amplified record player and the library of vinyl LPs from Jared's extensive personal collection to the bar's weekly calendar of live performances. Analogue is located at 19 West 8th Street, NYC, 212-432-0200. Visit: www.analoguenyc.com and follow them on social media @analoguenyc.
Photo Credit: Michael Tulipan
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