Master Mixologist: John McDevitt of PUTTANESCA Chelsea

John McDevitt has been working in the service industry since his first job at the age of fourteen, working as a busser at a tiny Italian joint in North Bend, Washington. Since then, John has worked as a line cook, a manager, a server, a dishwasher, and a runner. He got his start bartending in 2013, slinging cheap margaritas and bloody marys at the Phoenix Skyharbor Airport. Since moving to New York, John has fallen in love with the city, and the exciting cocktail culture here. John lives in Brooklyn with 2.5 roommates and 2 cats. When he isn't bartending, John likes to paint portraits of characters from Twin Peaks or ride his bicycle through Prospect Park.

John believes that one day he will discover the perfect pairing, not just a pairing of food and a cocktail, but also the perfect table, silverware, lighting, clothing, shoes, the perfect poems for reading between each course, and the perfect painting to hang over the table while he is eating.

Broadwayworld Food and Wine had the pleasure of interviewing John about his career and Puttanesca for our "Master Mixologist" feature.

When did you first become interested in the cocktail culture?

My first restaurant job in New York was at Carnem Prime Steakhouse in 2015. While there I became fascinated by some of the cocktails our mixologist Artemio Vasquez was making. He taught me some secrets and sent me on this journey.

What innovations in mixology and bartending do you find fascinating?

I'm actually really interested in the development of non-alcoholic spirits and mocktails. Don't get me wrong, I still love mixing up a strong drink for someone, but I also believe that the craft can be applied to making fascinating and creative beverages for people who don't consume alcohol.

How do restaurant and bar guests encourage your creativity?

Feedback! It's all about feedback. I'm always playing around with things and I love asking people to try stuff I'm working on.

What are your preferred "classic cocktails" and why?

I love Negronis. If you prepare your rail correctly and you cut your twists before service, you can bang out perfect Negronis faster than any other cocktail when the bar is slammed. And they're always a hit!

What are some of your favorite infusions and how you like to use them in drinks?

I love the complexity of Aleppo peppers. Usually when people make "spicy" cocktails they jalapeños. But I think that the jalapeño can completely overwhelm the other flavors. The aleppo pepper adds the kick while being a little more subtle and diverse in what it's bringing to the palate.

Tell us about a few of your signature cocktails and why they are distinctive.

The Cognati is just as delicious as it is photogenic. It's a simple drink, just orange prosecco sorbet, dehydrated lemon, aperol, prosecco, and fresh blood orange juice. It's a citrus dance and a perfect cold treat for a hot summer day. The Kathy Burns is a mocktail I named for my favorite regular at the Hotel Valley Ho in Scottsdale. When Kathy got pregnant I needed to come up with something fun for her to drink when she came to the bar with her husband. Kathy loved anything with ginger. Her mocktail is a living drink (the recipe is always changing), but at its core there is always ginger, effervescence, and seasonal fruit. The Pajamaberry No. 2 is my signature. Smokey mezcal, bright passionfruit, and a fuzzy mouthfeel. Always best enjoyed while wearing something comfy and flannel.

Give us your perfect pairing for a cocktail and a culinary selection.

You can't go wrong with yellowtail crudo and the Serpente Rosa. The freshness of the lemon juice and the spice from aleppo infused vodka compliment that mild, wonderful fish. But my own order is a strong, ice cold Manhattan, up, light on the vermouth, with a dry aged ribeye.

Tell us a little about your company or restaurant.

Puttanesca gets to the point. It's not pretentious. It's just a good restaurant. The chef is known for his steaks (bring a friend so you can split the dry aged ribeye for two), but he also makes the best gnocchi I have ever had. We have great wine (I might be the cocktail slinger, but I also love pairing wine with food). The staff is always on their A game. I'm always impressed with the servers, they give great service with personality. They're professional without being stuffy. I love this business, I love restaurants. Puttanesca is one of my favorite places I've ever had the privilege to work at.

Puttanesca is located at 202 8th Avenue at 20th Street, New York, NY 10011. The restaurant's hours are Sunday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 5 pm to 10 pm; Friday and Saturday from 5 pm to 11pm. Visit their web site at https://puttanescany.com/ or call them at 646.692.4123. Follow Puttanesca on Instagram @puttanescany.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Puttanesca and John McDevitt

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