BWW Preview: LALA SAHAB Modern Indian Fare on the Upper West Side of NYC

Lala Sahab (Pronounced Saab), is a new concept that recently opened in the former Savoury location on Manhattan's Upper West Side, named after Executive Chef Lala Sharma and the Hindi word for "Sir." Sharma began his career in his hometown of New Delhi at Bukhara, considered one of the world's 50 best restaurants. He trained with top chefs in India and learned the fine art of tandoor cooking. In 2001, he began his first venture at the original Surya in the West Village, which has since been reopened by his son, Abishek Sharma, who now has creative control and is instrumental in creating new concepts and operations. Mohan Lal, who has worked alongside Lala Sharma for the past 20 years at Bukhara, will serve as head chef of Lala Sahab.

The new concept is Abishek's vision for modern, creative and approachable Indian cuisine. The menu features mostly small plates perfect for sharing that are influenced by Northern Indian cooking. The menu is divided into small plates, Mumbai Bites, Bhatti Se (from the Tandoor) and Choolah Se (from the pan). Small plates include the Tikka-Wale Samosa, a fun and creative form of tikka masala, in which the tender chicken is nestled inside a golden-fried samosa pastry, and the Dahi Batata Poori, little round crisps topped with Masala-spiced chickpeas, mint, tamarind and a creamy yogurt drizzle. The Mumbai Bites offer another playful rendition of an Indian favorite with Tikka Sliders, tender Tandoori-roasted chicken coated in Tikka Masala seasoning and served on a bun with house-made chutneys. The signature Lala's Chaap features tender, tandoor-cooked lamb chops marinated in Indian spices, red wine and herbs. The Choolah Se options are mostly flavorful classics, such as Butter Chicken, coated in a zesty and creamy tomato and Fenugreek sauce and the Bhuna Gosht, slow-cooked goat served in a tomato and shallot sauce.

Various biryanis are also offered as larger traditional plates served with rice, including chicken, shrimp, or vegetables with garam masala and saffron or with lamb, tossed with saffron and aromatic spices. A daily chef's tasting menu is also available, featuring seasonal cuisine and an optional beer and wine pairing. Dishes can be paired with warm, made-to-order bread, such as traditional Garlic Naan or Peshwari Naan, stuffed with nuts and dried fruit, as well as whole wheat versions, such as Poori, whole-wheat puffed bread, or Lacha Paratha, multi-layer whole wheat bread.

Sides include mixEd Salads, such as Kachumber with cucumbers, tomatoes and onions and tossed with fresh lemon and chat-masala, and vegetarian dishes like Tadka Dal, yellow lentils with ginger, onions, tomatoes and cumin and Mutter Bhartha, Tandoor-roasted eggplant cooked with onions, green peas and tomatoes. Standards are also available, like creamy spinach Saag and various chutneys served with Papadams, homemade thin, crispy Indian crackers.

Desserts include a whimsical update with an Ice Cream Sandwich made with popular Indian cookies by Parle-G, as well as classic Rasmalai, sweet cheese dumplings in rosewater-flavored milk, and house-made Kulfi, or traditional Indian ice cream in mango or pistachio flavors, which can be perfectly accompanied by warm, milk-steeped Masala Chai.

A newly installed rotating draft beer line with mostly local brews is available, with options such as Blue Point Toasted Lager from Long Island and a Rye Pale Ale from Bronx Brewery, as well as Indian imports, such as King Fisher Lager. Various bottled craft brews are also offered, as well as global wines carefully curated to compliment the flavorful menu.

For an Indian brunch on weekends, consider ordering the Thali, a large round plate with choice of eggs and bread and served with mixed vegetables, or Mom's Egg Bhurji, an Indian egg dish with onions, green peppers, salt, pepper, and green chilies.

The Lala Sahab décor pays homage to the warm colors of Indian spices and cultural history, with plush black leather seats with brown panel accents and black and white photos of Indian Freedom Fighters. The front of the restaurant will also welcome guests to sit at the 6-8 available seats at the newly designed wine bar.

Lala Sahab is located at 489 Columbus Avenue between 83rd and 84th. Call 212-875-1400 or visit www.LalaSahabNY.com. Hours of operation are Monday-Friday 5 p.m.-11 p.m., brunch Saturday and Sunday Noon-4 p.m. and dinner 5 p.m.-11 p.m.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Lala Sahab

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