Chef Spotlight: Executive Chef Antoine Camin of LA GOULUE in NYC

Antoine Camin, top New York French chef and Michelin-star winner, is La Goulue's in-house legend. Chef Camin's success is really no surprise; as young as 17-years-old, he knew his future was being a chef. Influenced by his Parisian mother's cooking, Camin found his passion. When it came time for a more formal culinary education, he apprenticed in Auxerre, Burgundy. He thrived in the heat of the kitchen and later moved to Paris, working in the various restaurants the City of Light had to offer.

Yet, even Paris could not tie down Camin for long. In 1989, he met a chef with contacts in the United States, and he simply could not turn down the opportunity to travel - it was something Camin had often dreamed of. In 1991, he crossed the Atlantic and began working at restaurants in Boston: "Julien", and then the Colonnade Hotel's acclaimed "Brasserie Jo". After several years in New England, Camin connected with world-renowned Chef J. Joho, and was soon at the helm of his Chicago restaurant. Only once more would Camin travel across the country - when he found his future home in NYC: Jean Denoyer's La Goulue. It was La Goulue where Chef Camin was honored with Michelin stars in 2006 and 2007. Camin took the job in 2004, staying until 2009 when the famed restaurant closed due to lease issues. While Denoyer was searching for a new location, Camin worked as head chef of La Goulue's sister restaurant Orsay. La Goulue opened up again in 2018; in the restaurant's rebirth at 29 E 61st St, Camin returned as a partner, and, of course, top chef.

Happily, and expertly, curating La Goulue's menu, Chef Camin has taken everything he learned - and everything he enjoys - and channels it into his dishes. Camin always tries to "respect the product"; thus, he never incorporates more than three flavors in a dish. According to Camin, this allows the patrons to appreciate the ingredients' flavor, and never creates a situation in which the patron "doesn't know what they're eating." He prefers to work with fish over meat, and to include seasonal and local organic products; his environment inspires his work. "My recipes are all the training I've had, the people that I've met, travel I've done. Everything builds your own culinary vision." The people Chef Camin has encountered is enough to catch eyes; he became acquaintances with legendary TV cooking personality Julia Childs while she was a regular customer at Brasserie Jo. Camin was even a guest at her exclusive "chef" party at her Cambridge home.

Chef Camin's culinary individuality and ingenuity cannot be solely credited to his experiences. His curiosity is ever-present and has driven his experimentation in cuisine. He dabbled in molecular gastronomy and the high-end, futuristic method of cooking "sous vide", in which vacuum-sealed bags of food are cooked in temperature-controlled water. While Camin has tried -and had great fun with - such methods, cooking and being a chef "the traditional way" is what has driven him all these years. His advice to aspiring chefs clearly mirrors his own attitude, in (and out!) of the kitchen: "Routine causes frustration. Keep yourself motivated and curious, having fun with what you do."

Broadwayworld.com had the opportunity to interview Chef Camin for our Chef Spotlight feature.

What was your earliest interest in cooking?

"My earliest interest in cooking was when I was 16 years old, right after I quit high school. My father found me an apprenticeship at a restaurant in Burgundy, and I worked with friends there for a couple of years. I didn't have a choice about working there, but I found a passion for cooking."

Who were some of your career mentors?

"I really looked up to Chef Jean Joho in Chicago (Everest, Brasserie Jo). He is extremely talented - obviously because he owns several successful restaurants in Chicago and Las Vegas - and I liked the way he approached this business. He was serious and had outstanding discipline, but he was also very kind. Being kind is quite important in this business. I worked with him for 7 years and enjoyed the entirety of my time with him."

What culinary styles have influenced your career?

"I have always enjoyed working with local produce and proteins. However, it is a commitment that is difficult to always stick to; sometimes the demand is so high, and local farms are not always accessible. But, when I can, I love to get the produce and meat, fish, etc. locally. I don't need fish from Hawaii - it can be just as good form around here! I have also always had an interest in Japanese cuisine."

What do you consider the most distinguishing features of your work as a chef?

"While I am consistent in my work and my approach to this profession, I find that I do not have any signature dishes. I actually find them cliché. As a chef, you produce recipes and specials on a daily basis. You're always reinventing yourself. Even if I repeat a special, I don't stick with the same exact recipe. I always try to improve and try something new."

What is your favorite meal or meals?

"Truly, my favorite meals are the ones I make after I harvest game - any type of game. I love to hunt and harvest birds, deer, anything! It's always a pleasure to make and have a meal after that."

Tell me a little bit about your restaurant for our readers.

"La Goulue is a classic French bistro chic that focuses on local produces and excellent service. The restaurant is a New York City favorite, and has pioneered the French dining scene since the 1970s. A sister restaurant actually opened in Palm Beach this past October as well."

La Goulue is located at 29 E 61st St, New York, NY 10065. For menus and hours of operation, visit https://www.lagouluerestaurant.com/ or call 212.988.8169.

Photo Credit: La Goulue

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