Zora's Café is now open in Manhattan's Hell's Kitchen neighborhood specializing in soul food classics based on family recipes prepared in a healthier fashion. Although the cuisine earned its name only in the 1960s, when the term "soul" was often employed to represent aspects of African-American culture, the origins and influences of this style of cooking can be traced back hundreds of years with culinary lessons passed down through the generations.
In true soul food fashion, Zora's Café is a family affair, a collaboration between the mother and daughter team of Linda and Zora Browne, who uses recipes handed down by generations. Daughter Zora, a recent graduate of the University of Maryland, runs the front of the house; Mother Linda, teaming with Head Chef Eugene McCall Jr. (ex- Miller's Near & Far, Mexicue, Ida Mae Kitchen-n-Lounge), will oversee a menu based on the cooking of her Mississippi-raised mother. Dishes are cooked in a healthier manner, with vegetable oil substituted for the traditional lard and high quality hormone-free meats, free-range eggs and other more nutritious (and lighter) ingredients. Linda is a retired United States Air Force physician whose medical background, combined with her decade long catering experience, has given her the tools to develop more wholesome soul food dishes without compromising great taste. There are also vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options, as well as craft beers and wine.
Diners begin the meal with complimentary Corn Bread. Small Plates entice with the flavors of the South: cornmeal-crusted Fried Green Tomatoes, crispy and salty on the outside, tender and tart on the inside; Hushpuppies; and Deviled Eggs seasoned with cayenne pepper, pickle brine, dill and paprika. Entrees are heartier and speak to tradition. Zora's Fried Chicken, the Browne Sunday dinner family favorite, is brined overnight, soaked in buttermilk and coated in flour before being cooked to a golden perfection. Smothered Pork Chops are braised and simmered in onion gravy; Catfish comes either fried or sautéed; and unctuous Oxtails are boiled until they're falling off the bone, covered in an ultra-savory gravy, and served over rice.
No soul food dining experience would be complete without standout side dishes like Macaroni & Cheese made with both sharp and mild cheddar; Southern Potato Salad with sweet relish mayonnaise, boiled eggs and a dash of yellow mustard (pairs especially well with the fried chicken); umami-rich Papa Tony's Collard Greens (named for Linda's father, who loved collard greens) are vegan as are the Red Beans. If guests wish, Red Beans can be prepared with pork.
Family desserts include Southern classics such as cinnamon and nutmeg scented Sweet Potato Pie; warm Peach Cobbler with fresh stone fruit; and Aunt Velma's Cake made-from-scratch fluffy yellow cake with chocolate frosting, Linda's homage to the chocolate cakes her Aunt Velma would bake.
The interior of Zora's Café is as comforting as the food: an inviting, cozy 19-seat dining room with an earthy color palette throughout the space that also features exposed brick and striking wallpaper that depicts lush greenery. Black and white photographs of scenes from the first half of the 20th century line a salmon colored wall. Interlaced wood tabletops, dark wood chairs and a mahogany banquette lend warmth.
Zora's Cafe is located in Hell's Kitchen at 712 Ninth Avenue between 48th and 49th Streets. The restaurant is open Tuesday - Friday 4pm - 12am; Saturday - Sunday 11am - 12am; closed Monday. Walk-ins only, no reservations. For more information, call 212-757-5888 and visit: www.zorascafe.com. Follow Zora's Café on social media @zorascafe.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Zora's Café
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