BWW Preview: HORTUS NYC Reinvents Modern Asian Fine Dining in New American Style

Every once in a while, a truly fresh idea comes along. At Hortus NYC, General Manager Suhum Jang (Per Se, Daniel, Jung Sik) and Executive Chef Seungjoon Choi (Blanca, Marea, Lowlife, Gammeok)-both graduates of the Culinary Institute of America-have reinvented modern Asian cuisine at the fine dining level, infusing local and seasonal ingredients with contemporary flavors. This is Asian cuisine like you've never tasted it: surprising, fresh, and bold, presented in an elegant, yet comfortable environment designed to match the menu. The team have dedicated their careers to honing their fine dining skills to bring this dream to life.

The name Hortus NYC, Latin for garden, reflects the emphasis on freshness, and the theme of the garden runs through the interior. Hortus NYC is a garden of earthly and ethereal delights. The contemporary design is stylish and comfortable. Divided into four distinct areas, the first floor is dedicated to bar dining with an open kitchen and a Chef's Table for intimate group dining and special tasting menus. The second floor contains a sun-lit lounge where waiting for a table with a view of the adjoining outdoor garden is a pleasure-and a perfect place to enjoy small plates and afternoon tea (beginning in Fall 2018). The garden dining area offers shade in the summer and will be enclosed for Winter. The main dining room, also on the second floor, greets you with hunter green walls, innovative lighting fixtures, silver-blue velvety chairs and cozy round banquets ideally suited to sharing food and conversation. The ceramic dishes in earthy tones of green, blue and gray, add another level of sophistication to the experience. Even the restrooms feel like a garden with verdant green living walls.

The attention to detail in the décor is found equally in the flavors and presentation of the food. The menu opens with a raw bar: pristine local Oysters paired with two sauces; gochujang, a spicy red chili paste, and lightly sweet and tart plum mignonette; Scallop Ceviche, marinated in orange, Calabrian chili and cilantro; Shrimp Cocktail with jalapeno, cucumber and avocado; King Crab with crème fraiche and red sorrel; and a stunning Platter that combines all of the above. There's also a selection of artisanal Cheese and Charcuterie paired with Asian condiments. The selections change with the seasons but may include Brebirousse D'Argental, creamy triple-crème sheep's milk from France, and Chiriboga Blauschimmelkäse, soft blue cow's milk cheese from Germany, complemented by bright citrus yuja marmalade and puffy, curvy housemade rice crisps. The charcuterie, such as Larchmont Bresaola, grass-fed beef, dry cured in New York, and Soppressata Smoking Goose, spiced dry salami from Indiana, flavored with ginger, pepper and nutmeg, are served with housemade pickled vegetables, such as tangy marinated yellow, white and purple cauliflower.

The Small Plates take originality to the next level. For example, Ssamjang Hummus is flavored with spicy-sweet Korean dipping sauce, topped with crunchy roast chickpeas and served with a jewel-toned array of vegetables for dipping, including purple and yellow carrots, red radishes, yellow-green endive and purple-red radicchio, planted upright in a bowl of ice, a stunning presentation that also preserves the vegetables' fresh snap. Charcoal Grilled Eggplant is a revelation, topped with melted mozzarella and showered with minced pork and pine nuts. Asian Aglio e Olio are thick, flat Chinese noodles tossed with bok choy, bean sprouts, and fresh garlic oil. Bone Marrow Mussels are offered in a restorative bone marrow broth flavored with Szechuan pepper.

The larger plates are generous and meant to be shared: Chicken is an elevated deconstruction of a Korean stew comprising grilled spiced chicken on the bone, cabbage with a smoky edge, shishito peppers and fine slivers of Korea shiso; Pork consists of lightly sweet and savory braised pork belly with shiitake mushrooms and bok choy. Side dishes provide a wonderful counterpoint: fresh baked Scallion Rolls served with light green scallion butter; housemade and seasonal Pickle or Kimchi; and Crispy Fried Potatoes, small round new potatoes in flakey brown jackets with purple or white flesh.

The perfect ending is the Rice Pudding topped with fresh mango, condensed milk and showered with dried black lime.

Beverages: A carefully curated selections of fine sparkling wines and Champagne, red and white wines from France, Italy, New Zealand, and the U.S., Japanese craft beer such as Stout Echigo and Pale Ale Kanazawa, Korean bottled beer, Junmai ginjo and Junmai sake by the glass, unfiltered rice wine, soju, premium soju as well as premium soju cocktails such as H, composed of Hwayo 23, grapefruit segments and grapefruit tonic, Moonrise built from Makgeolli, Jinro24, mango tonic with lavender salt, and 5th Ave, Jinro 24, Hwayo 23, tonic, thyme, lime, subtle, flavorful cocktails that are appreciated for their low alcohol percentages.

Hortus NYC is located at 271 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10016, 646-858-3784, www.hortusnyc.com, and is open Sun, Tues and Wed 5:30pm-12:00am, Thurs-Sat 5:30pm-2:00am, closed Mondays.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of Hortus NYC

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