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BWW Preview: GREEN FIG at YOTEL in Hell's Kitchen Offers Modern Israeli Cuisine

By: Aug. 02, 2016
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Green Fig, which opened under the radar this spring inside YOTEL in Hell's Kitchen, has a new chef and revamped menu focusing on Modern Israeli cuisine, a combination of culinary influences from the Middle East, Mediterranean and North Africa. Dynamic 25-year-old culinary talent Gabriel Israel, formerly of Boulud Sud and the chef behind the Shuka Truck, is now heading up the kitchen, crafting boldly flavored, colorful and artfully plated fare that reflects his upbringing in his family's restaurant business in Tel Aviv, as well as his global travels and background as a graffiti and tattoo artist.

Food at Green Fig is best shared as guests would in a festive riad, a grand North African house with an indoor garden. The dining room mirrors the atmosphere with greenery throughout the space, including a living tree that emerges from the center of a communal table. Diners can awaken their palates with mezze: six small plates featuring charred eggplant, red peppers, hummus and more with housemade laffa bread (thicker and chewier than pita). The vegetable-forward Light section of the menu offers tender smoked paprika and za'atar seasoned Cauliflower served with feta, toasted almonds and Chef Gabriel's housemade "green fire" - his take on the traditional Yemenite hot sauce zhug made with jalapeno and cilantro; and Carrot Steak, a whole carrot charred on the grill after being marinated in a traditional Moroccan spice blend of smoked paprika, cumin, coriander, garlic, fennel, mint and cilantro that Gabriel learned from his mother. The vibrantly orange "steak" rests on Carrot Top pesto, accompanied by a housemade mozzarella, micro fennel, basil leaves and a spice crumble featuring coriander and basil. The OctopusCarpaccio is complemented by juniper berry and cumin scented walnut cream, earthy black eggplant puree, carrot chips, and shallot orange vinaigrette.

The diversity of Modern Israeli cuisine and Chef Gabriel's international travel influences and are exhibited throughout the Medium section of the menu with items like Fattoush the Italian Way, a summery hybrid of a traditional Israeli salad and the classic Italian combination of melon and prosciutto that combines grilled watermelon with prosciutto, sumac-spiced tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, fresh mint, goat cheese and housemade harissa, a spicy North African condiment. Jaffa to Tijuana is an homage to both the oldest part of the chef's Tel Aviv hometown and to his love for Mexican culture and cuisine with succulent pork belly cooked for three hours with pomegranate juice, coriander, cinnamon, star anise, fresh oregano, brown sugar, mustard seeds and more; Mexican-style grilled corn on the cob with paprika and lemon juice; and Gabriel's housemade take on Jerusalem bagel, which is typically more oval-shaped, thinner and lighter than its American counterpart. Gabriel makes his flakier and fluffier than traditional Jerusalem bagels by letting the dough rise for an extended period of time. He rolls the bagel in sesame seeds and coriander, tops it with smoked salt and serves wrapped around a cinnamon stick.

The Hearty section lives up to its name with Za'atar-spiced grilled chicken on the bone accompanied by a cumin-scented farro risotto, spinach-asparagus cream and fennel salad; Om Kalthoum Skirt Steak seasoned with Baharat, an aromatic and smoky Middle Eastern spice blend, and served with smoked corn, cauliflower-potato puree, chanterelle mushrooms, fresh fava beans and shaved daikon; and a standout dish that showcases Chef Gabriel's sense of humor and personal touch - the "Not Kosher" BBQ, a traif feast that combines the flavors of America's regional barbecue styles with Israeli/Mediterranean sensibilities plus chef's own barbecue sauce made with key ingredients of most notable sauce styles - ketchup, mustard and vinegar - along with global accents such as sesame seed oil, fresh orange juice and soy sauce. The barbecue sauce is slathered on slow-cooked pork ribs, which have been rubbed with cayenne, brown sugar, fennel seed, smoked paprika, salt and black pepper. Kohlrabi salad cuts the richness and potato wedges come with labane and za'atar (typically pita bread accompaniments) and the fiery greenzhug.

Dessert is also a whimsical affair - dubbed the Garden and served in a tilted glass bowl, Chef Israel's creation looks like an edible botanic exhibit: sponge cake pieces that look like rocks but are light as air, halva, pistachios, granola "soil," baked honey, microgreens and more.

Green Fig is located inside YOTEL at 570 Tenth Avenue (between 41st and 42nd Street) NYC. Call them at 646-449-7790 or visit: www.greenfignyc.com. You can follow Green Fig on Twitter @greenfignyc.

Photo Credit: @RatedRuwan



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