Chef Spotlight: Edwin Claflin of TESSA on the UWS in NYC

Edwin Claflin is the Executive Chef at TESSA on the Upper West Side of New York City. Edwin joined TESSA in 2014 as Chef de Cuisine and was part of the opening team. Before coming to TESSA, Edwin worked at Bobo, the Dinex Group (Daniel, Feasts and Fetes Catering, DB Bistro Moderne) Bouley and WD50, as well as restaurants in New Orleans (August and Cuvee) and Nantucket. Edwin is a graduate from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park with degrees in Culinary Arts and Baking and Pastry Arts.

Broadwayworld.com had the opportunity to interview Edwin Claflin about his career and TESSA.

What was your earliest interest in cooking?

I think my interest in cooking started super young. As an only child we always cooked dinner the three of us. My parents didn't buy baby food as a child, just owned a food processor (and a backup one too) and I ate what they ate a la puréed! My parents never asked for a kids menu, never had a baby sitter come over and never left pizza money on the counter, we ate together as a family. I was exposed to all foods early on and was encouraged to determine what I liked or didn't like for myself. I liked a whole bunch of atypical foods as a young child. I remember actually being thrilled on my 9th Christmas opening a gift which was a pâté terrine and genuinely being excited. I grew up in a house where food and the place where foods come from are important. We had gardens and would seasonally catch fish, lobster and scallops. Farm eggs, a separate produce farm, and trips to the baker for fresh bread were all routine. One stop shopping wasn't a thing for me growing up.

Who were some of your career mentors?

Every restaurant I have worked I learned something from everyone. Their have been dishwashers who I have learned efficiencies from, prep cooks who taught me how to peel and chop with ergonomics, runners who taught me how to carry plates...just about every aspect in the restaurant is tough and being efficient always leaves more time with the product, where precision and care are the most important.

The first time I was in awe of a chef was during a stage at WD-50 towards the end of my time of culinary school. Wylie was not only pushing the envelope of cuisine every night, he also worked hot apps station, while expediting. The chef was one of the most talented chefs I had seen and also one of the most bad ass line cooks I had ever seen, in one. Just could sling food, but with precision, and awareness of everything else on every station.

JFK, jean francois bruel, executive chef at Daniel was another chef who I hold in the highest regard. A brilliant chef with eyes everywhere and unrelenting in the pursuit of perfection. Crazy talented.

Francisco Migoya, (CIA pastry instructor, now at modernist cuisine) I had the honor of working with him multiple times in culinary school. It was obvious that he was the most precise pastry mind the whom I had worked.

And lastly and maybe most obviously, Cedric Tovar. I worked with him the last 6 years. I liked every aspect of him. Personally we are 2 peas in a pod, but I only followed him because his food is tastier than everyone else I have worked alongside. Ornate plating and fancy decor can only make a restaurant go so far.

What culinary styles have influenced your career?

I have mostly worked in French or restaurants that claim French techniques. I am from New England, have worked in New York, New Orleans, and lived in South American and sailed a whole bunch of the pacific. I think I can only be what I came from, but I have seen a bunch and worked with so many greats, so my style is just starting to emerge from my past.

What do you consider the most distinguishing features of your work as a chef?

My culinary training was extensive. When in school I switched from savory to pastry and then figured out how to utilize my time more efficiently and graduate with both degrees together, all while working in a wine store. I have that precise pastry background which is good for being organized and creating recipes. I love the consistent seasoning and adjustment of flavors in the savory world. And my interest in libations have always been strong.

What is your favorite meal?

I enjoy having some of the simpler foods out there. A good sandwich, pasta, bagel or pizza. But those are just when I'm hanging with me and my carbs. When with a group the meal can be great, but it is often the experience or the memory which is better. The craftsmanship behind a cocktail, the environment of the picnic, the showmanship of the plated desert those are all super fun and Instagram-able.

But my short answer is either the ham and cheese sandwich from Henry's JR, my favorite place where I grew up (hasn't changed in the 30 years I have ordered it), or the chilled spicy noodle at Momofuku noodle bar. That is addictive.

Tell me a little bit about your restaurant for our readers.

Our restaurant is beautiful. We put in a huge amount of effort in designing a beautiful space and lucky for me one of the nicest kitchens to cook in. We are able to produce some really great products and fantastic meals in a great space. We try to stick with a southern French cuisine and meander into other regions throughout the Mediterranean. Right now we are coming back into truffle season...not exactly Mediterranean, but who can say no to truffles. We just like to use the best products out there.

TESSA is located at 349 Amsterdam Avenue, New York, NY 10024. For more information, call them at 212-390-1974 or visit their web site at www.tessanyc.com. Find them on Facebook by searching TESSA NYC, and follow their Instagram account @tessanyc1. Hours of operation: Dinner Sun-Mon 5-10, Tues-Wed 5-11, Thurs-Sat 5-12, happy hour 4-6 everyday, bar and lounge open later - until everyone leaves. Saturday and Sunday brunch. Seats 65 guests in its main dining room, 50 in the bar/tavern area and 16 in the private dining/wine room at the rear of the restaurant. There is also a sidewalk café. For private events and off-site catering, please contact Patrick Duxbury, Patrick@tessanyc.com. or Elizabeth Meadows, Elizabeth@tessanyc.com.

Photo: Courtesy of Edwin Clafin