Book Review: DIVA, V&A Exhibition

The term “diva” rose to prominence with its relation to an operatic background and popularly revolves around the traits of someone’s character. Typically (and rather misogynistically) attributed to women, it’s used to describe a person whose temperament and self-importance are quite difficult to handle. Traditionally, it’s strikingly negative and obviously patronising. The definition has relaxed these days, defining personalities whose presence in pop culture is of unignorable social and cultural value. But the Beyonces and Lady Gagas of the world are only the last in a line of artists who left their mark on the history of entertainment.

The Victoria & Albert Museum in London has opened a brand new exhibition that puts on display haute couture gowns and artefacts that surround the industry, shining a light on the evolution of style and the correlated influence of prominent celebrities. Edited by Kate Bailey and featuring contributions from Veronica Castro, Sasha Geffen, Keith Lodwick, Lucy O’Brien, Miranda Sawyer, and Jacqueline Springer, Diva: The Courageous, The Fabulous, The Visionaries celebrates female artists and women’s voices. “Diva”, after all, derives from the appellative given to goddesses.

The publication explores the journey that turned opera singers into global megastars. It includes most of these days’ popular faces and it’s a treat for those interested in feminism, gender studies, and culture from an academic point of view, but also for those curious to engage with them on a perhaps more general level. From Josephine Baker to Rihanna all the way across Marlene Dietrich, Prince, Elton John, and Dolly Parton, readers will enjoy an in-depth insight into the connection between stardom and a changing society, as well as be able to come to their own conclusions regarding how the patriarchy keeps affecting the public opinion of female stars.

The book starts with a history of the language, untangling its implications and the various attributes that a “diva” would have in the past, building the mythology that surrounded the performers of the 20s and 30s by drawing a parallel with today’s vocalists. It establishes the diva as a force that drives change, whether willingly through overt political stances or subtly through fashion and beliefs. 

Glossy photographs and beautiful images support the extensive excursus of the idols. While the essays sometimes have quite an academic approach to the subject, going into specific details and unravelling how certain events have started, cemented, or ended careers, the single pieces are accessible on multiple levels and curated in their writing. All in all, it’s an interesting collection of thoughts and pop culture analysis. We could see it being mentioned in bibliographies and cited in university papers, but it also makes for a gorgeous coffee-table book.

Ringing in at £30 RRP, it’s not especially pricey, considering the thorough research behind it and the impressive quality of paper and binding. It’s a of womanhood, a glorification of female power, and, ultimately, an exquisite reminder of the many shapes of fame and their effects on society.

Diva is available to buy from the V&A website or on site at the museum.

The Exhinition runs at the V&A until 7 April 2024

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