Chef Spotlight: Pastry Chef Masaki Takahashi of RESTAURANT YUU in Brooklyn

Born in Japan, Chef Masaki received his formal training at Tsuji Confectionery College in Osaka, Japan. He graduated in 2009 and began his professional career at Michelin-starred Restaurant Tateru Yoshino in Osaka before moving on to three-Michelin-starred Restaurant Joel Robuchon in Tokyo. Stops at Patisserie Que Montebello in Osaka, and Restaurant RNSQ in Tokyo led him to become the Pastry Chef at Tokyo’s acclaimed, two-Michelin-starred NARISAWA.

Broadwayworld had the pleasure of interviewing Chef Masaki about his career as a pastry chef and Restaurant Yuu in Brooklyn. 

 What was your earliest interest in pastry making?

My earliest memory goes back to when I was about 3 or 4 years old, watching my mother carefully remove milk puddings from their molds (In Japan, milk pudding is a popular and common dessert. It is cherished for its simple ingredients such as milk, sugar, and eggs and smooth, creamy texture.). I think that was the moment that sparked my interest. After that, I started helping with cooking at home, making desserts together with my mother when I was in elementary school. By the time I was in middle school, I often made pastries on my own. I think I’ve always had an interest in food since then.

Who were some of your career mentors?

My father. He is a traditional craftsman who creates ittobori (traditional Japanese wood carving technique) carvings in Nara, Japan. I believe I learned the attitude and dedication of a craftsman from him. As for creativity, I was greatly influenced by Chef Narisawa (NARISAWA is a Michelin 2-star French restaurant located in Tokyo, Japan) from my previous job.

What culinary styles have influenced your career?

My career has been deeply influenced by French pastry. Many traditional French pastries have been made for 400 to 500 years, and the techniques that have been preserved are among the highest level of craftsmanship in the world. I believe these refined techniques and sensibilities are essential and should be maintained. At the same time, I want to integrate the Japanese approach to confectionery, which involves a sense of reduction and the 'less is more' philosophy.

I decided to specialize in classic French pastries during my time at culinary school. My passion for French pastries grew stronger after I started making them at my first restaurant job. The first restaurant I worked at was a French restaurant called Tateru Yoshino. It had three locations in Tokyo, and each of them received Michelin stars. The Shiba location, where I worked, earned two stars. As I kept researching the history and techniques behind the pastries I was making at the time, I found myself increasingly drawn to the cultural and technical allure of French pastry.

What do you consider the most distinguishing features of your work as a pastry chef?

I’ve made melon cream soda (a popular drink in Japan, featuring green melon-flavored soda with a scoop of vanilla ice cream on top, similar to a Coke float) my specialty and have been continually preparing it. I adjust the ripeness of the melon used in the granita, mousse, and fresh fruit components to create a balanced and unique experience. I also pair it with traditional French ingredients like Pernod or white port wine. This fusion of flavors, along with the nostalgic element of Melon cream soda as a drink from my childhood, makes it a very symbolic representation of my style.

Another of my specialties is "Fuki no Tō and Buntan." This dessert is inspired by the vitality of the fuki no tō (butterbur shoots) that emerge from beneath the lingering snow at the end of winter. I combined the unique aroma and bitterness of the fuki no tō with the bitterness of the buntan(pomelo), which is also in season at the same time. The dish captures a moment at the end of winter, with the refreshing tang of lime and the acidity of yogurt, evoking that still slightly chilly atmosphere.

What is your favorite meal or meals?

My favorite meals are mainly French and Japanese cuisine. When it comes to French cuisine, I intentionally visit French restaurants because I find it valuable to learn from other chefs' creations, their service, and the overall experience. It's a great way to study and refine my own approach.

The purpose of exploring French cuisine is to discover dishes and desserts that I am unfamiliar with, so I don’t have specific favorites. However, when it comes to Japanese cuisine, I often find myself craving eel(unagi), tempura, and yakitori.

Tell me a little bit about your restaurant for our readers.

Restaurant Yuu was awarded a Michelin Star within it first year of being open and was recently ranked #1 Best New Restaurant in America by Robb Report. The experience embodies the Japanese principle of omotenashi, or mindful service, rooted in selflessness and sincerity.

The experience begins as diners take their seats at the 19-seat tasting counter, were a 13-course French omakase tasting menu with Japanese undertones is served. Recently, we launched our new fall menu, which has been warmly received by our patrons and guests.

Restaurant Yuu is located at 55 Nassau Avenue, Brooklyn, New York. For more information, visit their web site HERE and call 347-422-0270.  Follow them on Instagram @restaurant_yuunyc. 

 

Photo Credit: Jordan Sapally

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