BWW Reviews: THE HAROLD - A Very Pleasing Midtown Restaurant

Opened just this July, The Harold occupies a prime spot in Midtown Manhattan. This charming two-level restaurant is just a block away from Penn Station situated right at the busy intersection of Broadway and Sixth Avenue. The visibility is high, and so are the stakes, since the area is a hub of eateries.

Yet, the Harold offers the best of both high efficiency and bistro-like informality. There are unmistakable house touches like artisanal gelato, a namesake cocktail and a stylish decor with lighting fixtures that would be at home in 1890's Paris. But, there is also attentive, well-informed service. No wonder The Harold with its relaxing atmosphere is becoming a popular lunch spot and an after-work favorite among Manhattanites.

True to its identity as an American bistro, The Harold specializes in hearty flavors and tweaks the usual formats to create pleasing specialties. This is the only time in recent memory that I've seen gruyere used in finger food, which is exactly what happens in the Chicken & Gruyere Croquettes ($10), attractively presented with radishes and pickled peppers. The Lobster Mac & Cheese ($16) is a more standard recipe, but is here distinguished by The Harold's mellow, almost bisque-like cheese sauce. The taste of fresh lobster is unmistakable and richly rewarding.

A full raw bar is available, both at lunch, when you can order a half lobster with lemon aioli, and at dinner when lobster, calamari, and shrimp seafood salad takes its place on the menu.

Where dinner is concerned, the restaurant excels at dishes that embrace premium ingredients. The Brick Chicken ($23) is one excellent example. The special ingredients in this dish, preserved lemon and grilled rapini add to the classic taste of tender, crispy-skinned chicken and roasted potatoes. The Harold may also be one of the best places in New York if you're in the mood for Shrimp & Grits ($24) served in a house recipe that uses adouille sausage and Vermont cheddar; stark and irresistible flavors.

The drinks at The Harold are notable for their both their finely-coordinated flavors and their nuanced textures. With the Old Oaxaca ($15), the bar has crafted the rare south-of-the-border recipe that is smooth and frothy rather than tart. Mezcal, lime, and agave are here combined with egg white for a luscious and lingering taste. Then there's The Harold ($14), a cocktail that melds gin, prosecco, germaine and lemon to enrich both taste and texture with an invigorating dose of chopped basil.

Save room for dessert. Artisinal Gelato flavors include pistachio, rich Tahitian vanilla and invigorating coffee-based flavors.

The Harold is open for lunch, dinner and brunch and features a happy hour. Convenient to midtown and the theater district, they are located at 1271 Broadway (on 32nd Street), New York, NY 10001. For more information call, (212) 686-1888 or visit their web site at www.theharoldnyc.com. You can also e-mail them at info@theharoldnyc.com.

Photo Credit: Courtesy of The Harold

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