BWW Reviews: NOVITÁ in Metuchen, NJ - 'Italian with a Twist' Surprises and Satisfies

Since 2008, New Jersey's own Novitá Bistro & Lounge in Metuchen has made a name for itself with innovative re-workings of beloved Italian dishes. While Italian food (even at its most delicious) tends to be a predictable wash of browns and reds, Novitá's kitchen specializes in recipes that are both delectable and colorful. Deep green kale, succulent purple beet gnocchi, and a soft gold maple mousse are all popular favorites. This may sound like high-concept cuisine--Novitá describes it as "Italian with a twist"--yet the restaurant itself doesn't rely on high-concept gimmicks where furnishings, service, and atmosphere are concerned. Both inside and out, the mood is mellow and welcoming, perfect for savoring your roasted beet gnocchi (complete with trumpet mushrooms and goat cheese, no less) and watching the day wind down.

One of the best ways to get acquainted with Novitá, and with its aura of low-key elegance, is simply to stop by for lunch. If you do so, you will be greeted by a selection of sandwiches and thin-crust pizzas that seem familiar, but switch in apt new ingredients: white pizza, but this time with flavorful goat cheese and sautéed spinach; a barbecue sandwich, but with tender duck instead of pulled pork or beef brisket. A two-course lunch special is also available, allowing visitors to become acquainted with the diversity of salads, soups, and pastas on the menu. In fact, some of the sweeter insalate options are ideal for summer: the Little Gem salad combines oranges, almonds, and citrus vinaigrette, while the Buttery Bibb mixes together shaved pears, candied walnuts, and an apricot dressing, all balanced out by gorgonzola.

So where do you go from here: smaller plates, or all-out entrees? Novitá has intriguing offerings in both areas, and utilizes everything from pea tendrils to thyme honey in its recipes. (I can't remember the last time I got this much enjoyment out of simply reading the ingredients on a restaurant's menu.) There is plenty of room to settle on favorites: their Eggplant Rollatini with prosciutto and vodka sauce is addictive, as is the Chicken Scarpariello with country polenta.

While Novitá's proprietors have only recently branched out into house-invented cocktails, the drinks presently on the menu are both versatile and generously portioned. During my last visit, I had the pleasure of sampling the cucumber margarita: exactly the kind of recipe that nine out of ten restaurants would salt to death and that Novitá executed without a hitch.

While a lot of the hyper-modern cuisine you'll find in New York inspires cool appreciation, if even that, the dishes at Novitá inspire something much closer to affection. The food can be daring, but never needlessly showy. It's also the kind of food--rare and extraordinary, in my experience--that encourages you to be a better, more inventive cook.

Novitá Bistro & Lounge is located on 25 New Street, Metuchen, NJ 08840. They are open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday and welcome both small and large parties. For reservations and information, call (732) 549 5306 or visit their web site at www.novitanj.com.

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