BWW Reviews: DEL FRISCO in NYC Feeds Carnivore Cravings in Grand Style

Everything about Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House is massive. Massive space, massive wine list, massive crowds and, of course, massive cuts of meat.

The establishment breathes corporate power-the crowd (and I do mean crowd) wears business attire, and imbibes serious drinks near the first-floor bar, while waiting for tables.

Del Frisco's two-story floor-to-ceiling windows offer impressive views of Radio City Music Hall and a slice of Midtown that is to corporate headquarters what Hollywood is to movie studios.

Wading into the front lobby of Del Frisco's is a challenge akin to crowd surfing at a rock concert. The revolving doors deposit diners-to-be in a bustling atmosphere thick with boisterous conversation and laughter. As we sidled our way to the host desk, we were told, "We have a beautiful table for you. It will be ready in just a few minutes."

We shimmied our way to the massive, winding staircase and tried to chat despite the surround-sound experience. We were soon collected by a host and led upstairs, and our table was as promised. We overlooked the first floor, where every table was filled. Dark wood columns and beams accented the masculine, clubby feel. The vast, towering space was a little like the balcony of a cathedral dedicated to beef.

We quickly grew accustomed to the decibel level, which generated energy and excitement: Masters of the Universe at the bar, news headlines flickering across the Fox News building across 48th Street, servers bearing sizzling slabs of beef. Our server Justin, attired in a long-sleeved white shirt and black vest, welcomed us and suggested that we consider a signature cocktail to warm up.

"Try the VIP," he said. "It's one of our most popular." I now know why. Comprised of Svedka clementine vodka infused with Hawaiian pineapple and garnished with a sliver of orange peel, it was smooth and a little sweet. Delicious. It did come with a caveat: "Be careful with those, they're addicting," Justin said. My companion had the pomegranate martini-360 vodka (the first eco-friendly vodka) Pama pomegranate liquor and a splash of cranberry. Perfect, with a light magenta hue.

Faith, our sommelier, voiced the same warning about the cocktails: "They go down very easily. Pace yourself." She pointed to a 42-page, 2,000 selection wine book. One of the most expensive vintages was a 1978 Romanée-Conti grand cru that sells for a little under $10,000. We made an executive decision to stay with the luscious cocktails. Faith encouraged us to beckon should we want to try a wine sampling.

Meanwhile, a mini-loaf of semolina with rose-shaped butter appeared on our white table-clothed table.

The menu offered familiar apps with a Del Frisco's twist-Del's salad (iceberg lettuce with tomato, onion, julienned carrots, croutons and a crisscross of bacon), a classic Caesar, beefsteak tomato and sliced onion. It was a brisk night and we were still defrosting so the soups sounded intriguing: a wild mushroom and heirloom barley and a lobster bisque. We sampled the bisque, which was creamy, but more lobster rich than cream heavy.

Other apps include king crab legs, shrimp remoulade, Royal Ossetra caviar, tuna tartare, oysters on the half-shell and the famed crab cake. No brainer: We ordered two. Remarkably devoid of any filler, the crab was succulent and seasoned with a light touch. They were served on oval-shaped plates, garnished with a tangy Cajun lobster sauce and scallion garnish. Moist and tender. Perfection.

Side dishes include cauliflower and brie au gratin; a vegetable of the day (broccoli that night); Maque Choux corn, a smoky, peppery Cajun rendition of creamed corn with bits of ham; and spinach, creamed or sautéed.

There's also hunky onion rings the size of a doughnut and stacked on a plate like a tower of Jenga blocks. If you crave potato, there's plenty to sample, from the massive baked to chateau potatoes. Bacon-wrapped sea scallops are another temptation. King crab gnocchi and the lobster macaroni and cheese get raves, but we were reserving space for the main event.

If you insist on a non-steak entrée-go figure-there's pan-roasted chicken and assorted fish choices.

It was soon time for the serious steak knives. We ordered the bone-in-sirloin and the bone-in filet. When served cautiously we were told not the touch the plate. We could still hear the sizzle and took the admonition seriously. We were both asked to carve into the middle of our steaks, to make sure they were cooked to our wishes. The sirloin, medium rare was sublime. The filet was so tender it nearly fell apart in my mouth.

"It's smoky and the perfect temperature," my companion reported. "Right now I'm feeling a lot of compassion for vegans."

Bordering on cacophonous, Del Frisco's is not the place for intimate conversations or important decisions. Except those involving cuts of meat. And you will hear snippets of your neighbors' discussion, augmented by loud music. It won't matter. You'll be too busy savoring your steak to care.

By the time you get to the dessert menu you should be satiated. But you have to read it-you know, for fun.

Warm banana bread pudding topped with caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream might lure you, as might the butterscotch cheesecake, strawberry Romanoff; vanilla ice cream topped with fresh strawberries in a Grand Marnier sauce. There's also the standard crème brûlée made with Belgian white chocolate and cinnamon, chocolate mousse with Belgian dark chocolate topped with fresh whipped cream or the seasonal berries.

But the home-run goes to the famed six-layer lemon cake that takes six hours to prepare. It's not even on the menu, because they run out so often they don't want to disappoint anybody. But the insiders know to order it before their entrée, just to make sure there will be one left. Just order one. It's decadent, moist and, most of all, massive.

Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse is at 1221 Avenue of the Americas, entry on West 49th Street, delfriscos.com, 212-575-5129.

Photo Credit: Courtesuy of Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steakhouse

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