BWW Reviews: CANYON ROAD in NYC: Mellow Atmosphere and Masterful Cuisine

Envision it: a current-day Tex-Mex restaurant where there isn't a single bottle of Tabasco sauce in sight, where there isn't a single strain of needlessly loud mariachi music to be heard. All of us-even those of us who revel in the frequent spiciness and sauciness of South-of-the-border dishes-must have had daydreams about subdued, savvy cooking of this sort.

Visiting Canyon Road on the Upper East Side is like stepping right into one of those daydreams. Instead of delivering the usual habanera and jalapeno shock-and-awe, the menu items quietly win you over with their diversity of taste and texture; instead of sporting piñatas or neon signs or Aztec-inspired bric-a-brac, the restaurant itself lulls you with its dusky lighting and makes you feel at home within in its unobtrusive, adobe-like walls.

Over the past twenty years, Canyon Road's Chef, Ruperto Ramirez has fashioned a menu that abounds in culinary contrasts. Among his most popular appetizers is the Spicy Peanut Shrimp, which pairs up the title ingredients with plantains, peppers, mango salsa, and a blue corn tortilla shell. Figuring which ingredients to put together in each bite is part of the pleasure here, but not only here; the cocktails too benefit from calm deconstruction. Try the Jalapeno-and-Strawberry Margarita, and see when the soothing strawberry starts to fade and the hard jalapeno starts to kick in. Another signature cocktail makes most of a different kind of pairing-here, Tequila and Mezcal, two liquors distilled from different strains of the agave plant, and two with very different characters.

For the entrees, Canyon Road offers options that you won't find at the other fine Mexican destinations on the Upper East Side. The Duck Burrito is a favorite, as are the Swordfish Fajitas. I tried the second of these during a recent visit, and was surprised by the presentation: the vegetables were whole and thick, not sliced thin or diced up for easier handling. But what those white onions and green peppers lost in efficiency, they gained in flavor. The substantial swordfish played nicely against the sweet peppers and buttery onions, and it helped that the usual distractions weren't part of the entree. These fajitas came with no shredded cheese, not much sour cream, guacamole or pico de gallo; just a little cooking oil, and only a small cup of tempered, unobtrusive smoky sauce for extra flavor.

There are, of course, more standard Tex-Mex favorites on the menu. The made-at-your-table guacamole is especially popular, and gives Canyon Road yet another chance to exhibit the best of its ingredients. Fresh churros with ice cream and strawberries have also become part of the restaurant's repertoire. Yet, this dessert isn't really a departure from the best things about Canyon Road, since the textures (crusty coating, succulent center) as are as satisfying as usual. No surprise the restaurant has quite a few regulars. And no question: this should be one of your destinations-even if it's just for margaritas and churros-next time you're around 1st and 75th.

Canyon Road is located at 1470 1st Avenue (between 76th and 77th Street) New York, NY 10021. Call them at (212)734-1600 or visit their web site, www.canyonroadnyc.com.

Photo Credit: Emilie Baltz

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