BWW Reviews: 1200 MILES: Worth the Trek

Walk through the doors of 1200 Miles, a year-old establishment in the Flatiron District, and your journey has begun.

The penny round tile floor of the bar area evokes an oyster bar. A globe, tucked among the bottles behind the bar, hints at gastronomic adventures that borrow from cultures far from West 21st Street. The restaurant was inspired by the European travels of owner Mark Stern, and the menu, created by Chef Blake Schumpert, by the flavors of the countries that form the shores of the Mediterranean. The distance between Algiers and Paris? It's 1,200 miles.

Subdued lighting bathes the spacious interior. White brick and exposed pipes give the dining room a decidedly nautical air, which is the point, explained our server Brent, who drew our attention to an old-fashioned ship's engine speed indicator behind our banquette. Hip but soothing music blended with the sounds of the bar crowd to create a comforting buzz.

Drinks were a journey in themselves. Aside from an ambitious cocktail list and an intriguing wine list, the choices included a staggering array of single-malt Scotch, tequila, rum, vodka, gin, bourbon and cognac. They even offer Mansinthe, which, of course, is Marilyn Manson's brand of absinthe. If you're a cognac aficionado (or a novice) you may want to consider the recently launched customized Pierre Ferrand cognac flights. Very mature cognacs are comprised only of Grande Champagne grapes (considered top notch). They create subtle aromas of vanilla, rose, violet, orange zest, raisin and apricot.

The cocktails have descriptive names, like "A Pear Grows in Amsterdam," which melds Bols Genever gin, Warwick Farms pear liqueur, St. Elizabeth allspice dram, lemon, egg white and angostura. Winter Pomegranate Punch sounded tasty but Brent turned my head with the description of Rascasse.

"But you must love grapefruit juice," he emphasized. I do. Rascasse contains Absolut Ruby Red, fresh-squeezed juice, Campari, Cinzano red (an Italian brand of Vermouth), grapefruit liqueur and yuzu. Served with a generous grapefruit peel adorning the glass, it tasted like Florida, refreshing and sparkly. Or if you're daring, try the Flatiron stinger with chocolate and spice, another popular choice, Brent said.

My companion was quite happy with a Spanish red wine, a 2011 Barbazul from Huerta de Albalá. It smelled as good as it tasted, full-bodied and fruity.

Our banquette, covered in a comfy plush fabric, was roomy. It was a blustery night and soup sounded like a good idea. I sampled the puree of lentil, which packed a pleasant peppery touch, thanks to its jalapeño crème fraîche garnish. Soups vary according to market availability and the lentil soup had a smooth consistency and kicky finish.

A not-too-oversized loaf of crusty sourdough bread was accompanied by a saucer of virgin olive oil enhanced by garlic and a sprig of rosemary. The olive oil, green in hue, was light and fragrant. A perfect partner for the sourdough.

The starters are ambitious and varied, from fluke credo with fennel, citrus chili and olive oil to grilled Spanish octopus, with shaved celery, tomato, cucumber, Niçoise olives and preserved lemon. We opted for the octopus and seared scallops, two hardy-sized pieces that may have been the most flavorful I've ever tasted. Nicely seared with winter citrus, cress and pistachio, they topped cool Greek yogurt. Melt-in-your-mouth sweetness. "That's a perfect scallop," my companion noted, "a little sweet, a little seared. This is truly wonderful.­­­"

After studying the entrees, we decided on slow-roasted organic salmon with parsnips, halved Brussels sprouts and black truffle vinaigrette for me and crispy skate wing (a fish not typically found in many restaurants) for my companion. Accompanying the skate were fried artichokes, fairytale eggplant, lemon, herb salad and toasted hazelnuts.

Sides include spice roasted carrots and delicate squash, with charred red onion and almonds. We enjoyed the squash. Kale, with caramelized onions and pancetta, was sumptuous.

Our entrees were both winners-his skate resembled a lightly breaded angel wing and had a mild flavor. My salmon was nicely crispy on the ends and medium rare in the center. The tiny halved Brussels sprouts tasted al dente, and sunchoke (a root vegetable) chips, were crispy and sweet.

For dessert (impossible to resist) we opted for the made-to-order banana brûlée, made of steamed banana, hazelnut cake, warm chocolate ganache and topped with hazelnut ice cream. The textures complemented one another smartly. The velvety chocolate was smooth and not overly sweet.

The recommended apple tart (also made-to-order, so if you're in a rush, order a gelato) was heavenly. Warm apple slices atop a tasty pie crust were pure comfort food. Satiated (but not stuffed) we were invited to please come again.

Will do.

1200 Miles is at 31 West 21st Street, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues. 212-510-8722, www.1200milesnyc.com

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