BWW Reviews: CATHERINE ZEHR of Ballets with a Twist Talks Costuming at FIT

Costuming is a fascinating element of fashion. And Broadwayworld.com attended a special event at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) where Costume Designer, Catherine Zehr discussed her career working with the NYC dance company, "Ballets with a Twist." The program was held on February 26th at 6:00 at the college's Katie Murphy Amphitheatre on the 7th Avenue campus. The sold out event was part of the FIT Museum's Fashion Culture series. In attendance were students, professors, dance enthusiasts and special guests from fashion houses that included Jason Wu, Dior and Lanvin.

The program featured performance excerpts from Artistic Director and Choreographer, Marilyn Klaus' dance works. The event shed light on the process of designing costumes for dance. Klaus weighed in on the discussion to provide additional insight about Zehr's contribution to the company's success and joined her in answering audience questions.

Klaus, whose choreography has been seen internationally, formed Ballets with a Twist in association with Zehr and the company's composer Stephen Gaboury. The company has performed its signature floor show-to-stage production, Cocktail Hour, in a wide range of venues, from Lincoln Center and Ohio's PlayhouseSquare to SoHo House and Manhattan nightclub Stage 48.

The depth of collaboration between Zehr and Klaus is more than impressive. They have worked together for over 20 years and they revealed how they capture the aesthetic of their themes while making dance the center of their creation. Zehr attends all the company rehearsals year round as does their music composer, Stephen Gaboury.

I have personally been a fan of the Ballets with a Twist. Years ago, I saw my first performance of them in Rahway, New Jersey at the Union County Performing Arts Center (UCPAC) where they present their annual spring season. I admire their distinctive style and costumes with dance selections that showcase the company's talent including the pieces Mai Tai, Shirley Temple and Martini.

Zehr is the artistic force behind Cocktail Hour's costume design. Her creations evoke the origins and essence of each spirit with vivid colors and embellishments. Zehr honed her skills while working at major American fashion houses, then by designing and manufacturing attire for her own label. She studied art and design at Washington University and FIT. Even with her impressive background, Zehr continues to take classes and seminars to expand her art as a costume designer.

At the FIT Fashion Culture series program, excerpts from a number of the company's choreographies were presented and the costumes were discussed in depth. The evening's dance pieces included White Russian, Bloody Mary and Singapore Sling.

Zehr pointed out the detail and fabric qualities of each costume. She also told the audience that the costumes have to be very functional, allowing for complete freedom of movement for the dancers. She discussed the fact that each and every costume requires post-performance maintenance that includes mending and laundering.

There are special elements that make Ballets with a Twist costumes eye-catching and appealing from the exciting array of colors and trims, to the inventive styles. Speaking of accessories, Zehr said, "Headpieces are my favorite things." She even makes the tiaras by hand twisting wire and adorning them with sequins and jewels. Special effort goes into every piece. Zehr said that she trims the back of tiaras so that they are attractive from every angle.

When asked by the audience for advice for aspiring costume designers, Zehr had very practical and helpful tips. She suggested that people learn to make patterns and also know how to sew. She also advised interning or volunteering with a costume designer to get hands-on experience.

For more information on the company, Ballets with a Twist, visit http://balletswithatwist.com/. For learn more about the Museum at FIT and their Fashion Culture series, visit http://www.fitnyc.edu/museum.asp.

Photo Credit: "Eau de Ville" by Nico Malvaldi

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