BWW Reviews: GRAN MORSI for Great Bites, Big Flavors

Imagine finding refuge from a blustery TriBeCa evening in a just-out-of-the-blocks Italian restaurant and being blown away by ... the bread service.

Welcome to Gran Morsi. This elegantly designed establishment - the name translates from Italian as "great bites" - knows how to work a brick oven. Gran Morsi's boldly seasoned Italian fare focuses on small and shared plates. Except "small" is a misnomer. Even the appetizers are bountiful, and a few of these could easily substitute for equally generous entrees.

We entered the inviting space on a night when the latest polar-whatever had invaded New York and were greeted by friendly staff dressed in stylish layers against the chill of the opening door. A long bar lined the left side of the room, with ample seating. Sleek light fixtures hanging from the high ceiling bathed the interior in subdued tones. Very flattering, especially when you're coping with wind-buttressed hat hair. Cool jazz matched the level of the lighting to set the vibe at relaxed.

One interior wall is red brick. Another showcases vintage black-and-white photographs of New York landmarks like the Flatiron and Empire State buildings. The aesthetically pleasing design has two "living" walls-real plants outfitted with UV lighting and an automated water filtration system. I spotted ferns, hostas and spider plants among the garden-like wall. Eye-pleasing and eco-friendly.

Wood tables add a handsome touch, as does the spacious corner banquette. Once seated we were greeted by Lukas who offered beverages. I immediately asked for hot tea.

A box of specialty teas from Palais des Thés included estate-grown green tea from China, and jasmine, a personal favorite, which I chose. It was served in a mini-porcelain tea pot, in a delicate bag that lets you know when it's properly steeped. Delicious and much appreciated on this bitter evening, the tea flooded the senses with a fragrant aroma before I took my first sip. Perfect.

If you're in a cocktail mood, there's plenty to choose from. My companion went with a limoncello margarita (tequila, house-made limoncello, port prosecco) but you might like to try the cedar-smoked old-fashioned (bourbon, orange liqueur, Aztec chocolate bitters). Or draft beer, maybe the Blue Point toasted lager from Long Island. Sparkling, red and white wines are well represented.

And then came the bread service, unlike any I've ever had. It consisted of crisp, doughy wedges, the underside nicely charred, that might have become pizza had they crossed paths with mozzarella and tomato sauce. These slices of deliciousness were topped with four cheeses and suffused with a wonderfully peppery zing. Served in a mini fry basket, they were accompanied by a warm marinara and green olive oil for dipping. Thus began the first of the evening's calculations: Would we have room for the rest of the meal if we made short work of the "bread."

Appetizers ("morsi") include a popular black kale salad with smoked trout, Spanish octopus, and signature polpette meatballs (black Angus beef, pork, cheesy polenta and San Marzano tomatoes) served in a personal-sized mini cast iron skillet. When asked about the ample serving of meatballs, my companion said, "Let me put it to you this way: you don't want to leave any of this behind." He didn't.

I opted for the broccoli rabe, a generous portion perfectly cooked. Peppercorns added a kicky pizazz for a satisfying finish. We couldn't resist diver scallops saltimbocca, wrapped in speck, and served with capers, sage and blue hubbard squash cubes. Savory and delicate. Veteran New York chef Kenneth Johnson (of the renowned Pescatore, Picholine and Osteria Fiorella) helms the kitchen and has compiled a menu of creative and soundly executed dishes.

Before we decided on entrees, Lukas returned with pappardelle bolognese (spinach pappardelle in the classic meat sauce of Bologna). It went the way of the meatballs.

We chose rigatoni (pumpkin, caramelized onions, cannellini beans, kale, pumpkin and pesto), and branzino (faro, shaved sprouts, pumpkin and prosciutto butter). The rigatoni was perfectly al dente and the undertones were just right without being overshadowed by ingredients.

The branzino was spectacular-seared crust, butter reduction and topped with fresh green sprouts. The sharing was furious. Other favorites, Lukas mentioned, are the black Angus short ribs and chicken parmigiana.

A return visit is assured to sample the black linguine vongole, with chopped littleneck clams, pancetta, toasted garlic and San Marzano tomatoes. And, of course, another round of pizza-slice bread.

Eduardo made sure our water glasses were filled. We saw a couple of pizzas being served at another table; they looked quite tempting. Next time.

The interwoven flavors in all of our "bites" were bold but not brassy. Ingredients did not compete, but rather complemented. The word here is laid-back and unhurried; everything is cooked to order (no rush) and neatly spaced so there won't be too many "bites" crowding your table.

The service is attentive without being intrusive.

Mango sorbet was a palate-soothing close to the meal, a welcome sensation after all the kicky spices and peppercorns.

By the time we were reluctantly ready to depart this inviting space, we braced ourselves for the cold wind outside. A few steps out and I found myself craving just one more pot of jasmine tea.

Gran Morsi is at 22 Warren Street in TriBeCa. 212-577-2725.

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