Chef/Owner Yara Herrera told us about her background and Hellbender, the Mexican-American restaurant
A Los Angeles native, Yara began her career at the age of 20, working her way through some of the city's most renowned institutions, including Wolfgang Puck’s Spago and the two Michelin-starred sustainable seafood restaurant, Providence. In 2018, David Chang invited her to New York, to work at the highly acclaimed Momofuku Ko. Soon after, Yara turned her eye towards sustainability, learning from farmers and fellow cooks with similar goals. Collaborating with local growers to breed flavor, and cooking what is best for the ecology of nearby farms. Back in Brooklyn, Yara quickly ascended to Chef de Cuisine at Xilonen, a vegan and vegetarian restaurant, forging a menu that intertwined traditional Mexican techniques with fresh, seasonal produce. She has since then helped develop menus for several restaurants in New York, working with other professionals with similar visions, including Sobre Masa, a tortilleria and restaurant in Bushwick, Brooklyn, focusing on preserving native Mexican corn varieties. Most recently, Chef Yara Herrera is working on her first chef/owner project. Hellbender, in Ridgewood Queens, a Mexican-American restaurant and bar serving fun bites that complement the vibrant cocktail list. Quickly established as a standout dining destination in the neighborhood, Hellbender was recently awarded one of Esquire's "Best New Restaruants for 2024." Yara's culinary journey is deeply rooted in the evolution of Mexican-American flavors, where she seamlessly blends tradition with innovation.
We had the pleasure of interviewing Chef Yara Herrera about her background and Hellbender in Ridgewood, Queens.
What was your earliest interest in cooking?
Growing up cooking always felt more like a chore than an interest. I was the oldest of 4 sisters and it was my responsibility to cook when my parents were working. At the time I didn’t realize I was pretty good at it. I was a very picky eater, so I always made sure it tasted to my liking.
Who were some of your career mentors?
David Lespron, was the Chef de Cuisine at Katsuya Hollywood in 2012 and also the first chef to ever hire me in a kitchen. He was the first chef I worked for that inspired me to be better. In that kitchen I learned everything from how to sharpen my knife, to how to use a mandolin, to how to work every hot line station, fryer, sauté, grill. I even made sushi a few times. He is someone I consider a mentor and I still call him every now and then and ask for advice.
Most recently, Howard and Rafiq, my business partners, have become my mentors. They have worked together for many years and opened Rolo’s with a common vision. In the last two years they’ve taught me so much about the logistics of building a menu and operating a business.
What culinary styles have influenced your career?
I was a big fan of Alice Waters while I was learning how to cook, working with farms and seasonal vegetables has been something that has always inspired me to make food. I am a big fan of Japanese techniques and presentation, as well as Thai flavors, spicy and limey. Obviously, Mexican ingredients and techniques are my go-to. The last couple of years I’ve been interested in learning more about pre-Hispanic techniques and how they’ve translated into today’s culinary world, for example tortillas and nixtamalization.
What do you consider the most distinguishing features of your work as a chef?
I think my food doesn’t play by the rules. I try to use techniques that bring out the best in the chosen ingredients, and I try to have fun in the process. Remembering to stay true to myself and what I’m feeling in the moment. Most importantly I refuse to work with corn that isn’t heirloom and native to Mexico.
What is your favorite meal or meals?
I enjoy simplicity when I’m having a meal and I’m quite basic. I always want tacos. I love pizza and I really enjoy fresh slices of sashimi over rice with a side of miso soup. Tacos, pizza and sushi make up the majority of my diet.
Tell me a little bit about your restaurant for our readers.
Hellbender was named after the wild giant salamander. We are a Mexican American restaurant in Ridgewood, Queens. We prioritize working with native heirloom corn and Mexican ingredients. We take Mexican techniques and ingredients and combine them with our current environment. The space allows for large groups to gather and enjoy a tasty dinner and pitchers of margaritas, but it’s also very intimate and moody, perfect for date night.
Hellbender is located at 68-22 Forest Ave. Ridgewood, Queens, NY. For more information, hours of operation, and menus, please visit HERE.
Photo Credit: Courtesy of Hellbender
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