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Review: Funny and Uplifting WAITRESS Sure Smells Like A Hit

By: Apr. 24, 2016
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Sometimes, as the old expression goes, you walk into a theatre and the show just smells like a hit. These day, when you walk into the Brooks Atkinson, it smells like pie. No kidding. The scent of buttery freshly-baked crust seems to have been wafted throughout the auditorium, a perfect mood-enhancer for the funny and uplifting new musical based on Adrienne Shelly's indie film, Waitress.

Keala Settle, Jessie Mueller and Kimiko Glenn
(Photo: Joan Marcus)

Under the assured guidance of director Diane Paulus, one of the strongest interpretive artists working in musical theatre today, two newcomers to the form, film producer/director/writer Jessie Nelson (book) and singer/songwriter Sara Bareilles (score), whip up a thoroughly satisfying concoction that balances the serious issue of a woman finding the courage to leave her abusive husband after discovering she's pregnant, with giddy romantic subplots and the heart-tugging presence of friends who will always be there for each other.

Returning to Broadway after her Tony-winning turn in BEAUTIFUL, Jessie Mueller, who has a wondrous ability to bring out what's special about realistic, everyday characters, is even better here. Her character, Jenna, is the star baker at Joe's Pie Diner, an out-of-the way roadside coffee shop. Taught as a child to be inventive with ingredients by her mother, Jenna has learned to deal with life's complications by turning her stress into recipes.

Beginning with the basics, her mantra of "sugar, butter, flour," sparks Jenna's creativity into customer favorites like "Ginger Snap Out Of It Pie" and "Wake Up and Smell The Coffee Pie," much to the appreciation of the diner's crusty and seemingly unpleasable owner (Dakin Matthews). Paulus cleverly stages these peeks into Jenna's safe place without intruding on the musical's grounded tone. Though she's not happy to find out she's pregnant, Jenna quickly dismisses any question that she would do anything other than have the baby, but she vents her frustration with a "Betrayed by My Eggs Pie."

Christopher Fitzgerald and Kimiko Glenn
(Photo: Joan Marcus)

As her husband Earl, Nick Cordero is a dangerous presence, but also one who is suffering from emotional problems, offering the story realistic textures. Jenna's escape plan involves stashing away enough tip money to enter a local pie-baking contest with a prize that would give her an opportunity to start a new life.

The unexpected twist is an affair with her new socially awkward OB-GYN (goofily charming Drew Gehling), but this is not a musical where a woman's problems are solved by finding a prince.

There are a great many supporting characters to cover, and the authors skillfully give each one their moments without cheating the main plot. Hearty and belty Keala Settle and adorably nerdy Kimiko Glenn are Becky and Dawn, Jenna's good pals and co-workers. Absurdly comical Christopher Fitzgerald is weirdly fun as Ogie, Dawn's Internet date who eventually wins her heart and Eric Anderson's gruff and disagreeable line cook Cal has so many verbal bouts with Settle's Becky that you know there must be a flame beneath them.

Music director Nadia DiGiallonardo's band plays onstage, an appropriate choice for a score that has the intimate pop/folk feel of coffee-house entertainment. There's a cool, kookiness to songs like "The Negative," where Becky and Dawn insist that Jenna pee on a pregnancy test, and Ogie's romantic declaration to Dawn, "I Love You Like A Table." There's also a sensational self-reflective 11 o'clocker, "She Use To Be Mine," that has Mueller standing front and center bringing down the house.

WAITRESS is a joy from start to finish. Those hungry for a grown-up musical that promotes wholesomeness and optimism will eat it up.



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