Review: SEARED at Alley Theatre

SEARED, by playwright Theresa Rebeck, tells the tale of Chef Harry and his business partner Mike’s struggling Brooklyn restaurant. Unbeknownst to Harry, Mike hires a restaurant consultant, Emily, to help turn things around. As she works to steer the restaurant toward success, tempers flare, egos clash, and the heat rises—in the kitchen and among the characters.

As you enter the intimate Neuhaus Theatre, you are greeted by what appears to be a fully functional kitchen—and that’s because it is. Sink, stove, and oven are all used in real time to prepare food onstage, adding an impressive layer of authenticity. Scenic Designer Riw Rakkulchon has truly outdone himself, crafting a set so true-to-life that you’d swear you could place an order from your seat. Very similar to a previous production earlier this season, the set changes are orchestrated with the precision of a finely tuned kitchen brigade. Watching the transformation from a bustling dinner rush to a fresh reset for the next service is as mesmerizing as one of Harry’s dishes coming together.

Christopher Salazar, a member of the Resident Acting Company, delivers a commanding performance as Harry, the culinary genius who when “playing around” with a scallop dish earns praise from a New York restaurant critic. Salazar nails the chef archetype—there are Gordon Ramsays and there are Jamie Olivers, and Harry is very much the former. He’s a god in his kitchen, and it is his kingdom. And he’s kind of a jerk. Salazar leans into every one of Harry’s flaws—his arrogance, stubbornness, and complete lack of compromise—making him both exasperating and fascinating to watch. He even preps and cooks during several of his scenes, adding to the realism. Director Brandon Weinbrenner made a smart move in bringing in restaurateur Justin Wu as consultant to train the cast, ensuring that everything from knife skills to plating techniques—even drinking out of plastic to-go soup containers—feels utterly authentic.

Chris Hutchinson, another Resident Company member, plays Mike, the long-suffering co-owner who has sunk his life savings (and every dime of profit) into the restaurant, only to be stonewalled at every turn by Harry’s ego. Desperate for success, he brings in Emily behind Harry’s back—a move that sets off more than just smoke alarms. Hutchinson plays Mike’s frustration well, but his performance could have used slightly more variation at pivotal moments. He enters the play already at a boiling point, leaving little room for build-up. That said, he succeeds in getting the audience firmly on his side in the fight for the restaurant’s future.

Elizabeth Bunch rounds out the Resident Company members as Emily, and her performance is Japanese-knife-sharp. Bunch consistently delivers characters that feel specific in their truth and fully realized, and Emily is no exception. She’s not merely a consultant spouting restaurant jargon—she’s actively engaged; from wafting around the kitchen with a glass of wine to plating dishes and running food like a seasoned pro. Every industry buzzword that comes out of her mouth feels natural, and even though we’re never quite sure whose side she’s truly on, we can’t help but root for her.

Kory Laquess Pullam plays Rodney, the restaurant’s server and the heart of the operation. Pullam exudes ease and charisma, making it clear that Rodney is the realist in the group—and the only one who can navigate Harry’s temper with honesty and grace. He’s also the only person in the restaurant who gets along with Harry, and when we learn that he shares his tips with the chef (I told you Harry's a jerk!), it's not surprising because Rodney is a team player. Pullam’s warmth makes him endlessly endearing. In many ways, Rodney undergoes the most growth over the course of the play, and by the end, he’s the one truly stepping into his own. Will he become like Harry? Probably not—he’s more of a Jamie Oliver.

The production boasts some truly stand-out moments. The opening of Act II is a brilliant example of show-don’t-tell storytelling, as Harry prepares what is hopefully to be the restaurant’s new signature dish. Alone onstage, he cooks in real time, and the only sounds are the rhythmic chop of his knife and the sizzle of ingredients hitting the pan. The chemistry among the cast is palpable, and the play moves briskly. While not revolutionary in its plot, SEARED is engaging and entertaining. And even though there is no real redemption arc for Harry—he remains as infuriating at the end as he was at the beginning, sometimes that’s just how it is. In real life not everyone has an epiphany. Some people are jerks, and they stay that way. As Harry walks off, Mike, Emily, and Rodney carry on, pointed squarely toward success.

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