"He really is a one-of-a-kind designer," said Harold Koda, curator in charge of the Costume Institute. "Even if you look through the history of French haute couture and all the English couture designers, James stands out as a very idiosyncratic personality and artist and one of the few designers who, in his own lifetime, felt that his work transcended the medium."
Aerin, the brand by Aerin Lauder, will underwrite the exhibition with support from Condé Nast.
The benefit, aka the Oscars of Fashion, that celebrates the exhibition is scheduled for May 5, with Lauder serving as the evening's chair. Bradley Cooper, Oscar de la Renta, Sarah Jessica Parker, Lizzie and Jonathan Tisch and Anna Wintour will serve as cochairs.
The exhibition will feature about 100 pieces by James showing his sculptural, scientific and mathematical approach to ballgowns and tailoring.
"There will be the new gallery space, which will focus on describing James' professional and personal biography, a timeline of his career and how he developed as an artist through to the final years at the Chelsea Hotel, where he had these remarkable collaborations with others and really was serving as a mentor to people," Koda said. "Upstairs, in the temporary gallery spaces, we are going to have a presentation of what is probably more familiar to people - knock-your-socks-off, glamorous clothes, but presented in a way that makes you understand what separated him from other designers."