Review: THE TOP RESTAURANT at Grand Theatre, Hong Kong Cultural Centre

The Top Restaurant, a masterful work by playwright HE Ji Ping, returns to Hong Kong after a successful tour in mainland China. Directed by Roy SZETO, this production at the Hong Kogn Cultural Centre Grand Theatre, breathes new life into a classic that has captivated audiences since its premiere at the Beijing People's Art Theatre in 1988.

Set against the backdrop of the century-old Peking duck restaurant "Fujude," the play unfolds over three acts, chronicling the establishment's tumultuous journey amidst historical upheavals between the reign of Emperor Puyi and the rise of the New Government. The narrative begins with the old proprietor, who, facing his own decline, entrusts the restaurant to his two disinterested sons. As the story progresses, we witness the successful revival of Fujude, thanks for the hard work, grit and strong leadership of Lu Mengshi, played brilliantly by TSE Kwan Ho. TSE delivers a compelling performance, showcasing a charming and intelligent character. The character itself is also one that's particularly admirable, whereby despite his efforts, the business and its successes are never truly his, and the efforts made are not always recognised or appreciated - a reality and feeling that many hard working employees in today's society can relate to. TSE's portrayal is both effortless and engaging, capturing the audience's attention from the start. However, one can't help but wish for a deeper exploration of Lu's internal struggles. While the play successfully highlights external challenges, it only scratches the surface of Lu and other character's emotional turmoil, leaving audiences yearning for more insights into the characters.

The ensemble cast is equally impressive. Special mention goes to CHAN Wing Chuen as the roast master, whose comedic timing adds a delightful layer to the narrative. Eddy AU YEUNG as the younger master, along with YU Hon Ting and Chris SUN as senior staff, provide convincing performances that enhance the play's humor and relatability.

Jan WONG's set design is a standout element of the production. The wooden beams and simple screens evoke the restaurant's historical essence, effectively illustrating its growth and prosperity. However, the final act's stage setup, while visually striking, felt somewhat overcrowded with screens, distracting from the characters. A more varied palette or a reduction in the number of screens could have added depth without overwhelming the audience. Nevertheless, the haunting beauty of the final set, complemented by Leo CHEUNG's lighting design, delivered a visually stunning conclusion that resonated with the themes of the play. 

HE Ji Ping's The Top Restaurant presents several poignant reflections on life. The notion that we are all transient figures in the grand narrative of existence resonates deeply, particularly through Lu Mengshi's journey. The play poignantly illustrates that despite one's efforts, recognition and appreciation are not guaranteed. The Chinese proverb "天下無不散的宴席" encapsulates the essence of the story, reminding us of the fleeting nature of relationships and the inevitability of parting ways.

Overall, The Top Restaurant is a visually captivating and emotionally resonant production. Under Roy SZETO's skillful direction, the pacing and tone are expertly balanced, and while the play could benefit from deeper character exploration, SZETO's direction, combined with strong performances and striking set design, creates a rich theatrical experience. This revival reminds us of the complexities of life and the transient connections we forge along the way, leaving audiences with a lasting impression of both beauty and melancholy.

(Photo credit: Thomson Ho)

To post a comment, you must register and login.